Chris Preovolos/The Advocate
Above: A pair of alfajores from Matthews’ Bakery. Below: Beef empanadas.
9/30/2008
MATTHEW’S BAKERY: 71 WEST BROAD ST., STAMFORD
Pepe Huyhua, the owner of Matthew’s Bakery in Stamford, is quick to let you know he offers a dazzling variety of pastries for such a small bakery; French, Italian, German, Jewish, you name it.
Huyhua, a native of Peru, was trained as a baker in Lima where he baked almost exclusively Peruvian pastries and breads. However, in 25-years of work in other people’s bakeries in the United States, he picked up a lot of experience baking a wide array of European and American confections. Naturally, when he went into business for himself nearly two years ago, Huyhua drew on all of this to offer a truly multi-cultural, multi-ethnic menu.
It is evident he doesn’t want to be pigeon-holed as a Latino or Peruvian baker, but just ask him about his Peruvian offerings and he will proudly tell you about the empanadas, alfajores, and the chicha morada-inspired dessert (the latter made only on weekends).
My brother-in-law, Luis, a native of Lima, has been teaching me a little about Peruvian cuisine. Unfortunately he and my sister live in Washington, D.C. and I’m only able to sample his cooking (particularly the papa a la huancaina) once or twice a year, so I had no idea what alfajores were. When I found out Pepe was talking about butter cookies filled with dulce de leche and covered in powdered sugar, I couldn’t wait to try one. The cookies are rich – I could only eat one, which is really saying something coming from me – but at the same time light, not-too-sweet and generally really, really good.
I usually go for the empanadas; they are Peruvian-style and always hit the spot. The beef empanada is baked and filled with ground beef, onion, hard-boiled egg and an olive. Matthew’s also offers a chicken version, though I prefer the former (doused liberally with La Victoria’s Orange Sauce).
I’ve also had the brioche, croissants, egg-and-spinach croissants, cheese Danish, scones, etc. and they are all worth a try. You can’t really go wrong.
Just about the only thing I don’t much care for are the tamales and even then, not because there are bad, but because they are plain corn tamales and I can’t bite into one without wishing it was stuffed with pork. But I’m just quibbling here, I’m not sure I could ask for more, all within a 15-second walk from my front door.
–CP
And all the rest:
I’m starting to worry about your cholesterol and blood sugar numbers.
Comment by MConrad — September 30th, 2008 @ 5:47 pm
Me too. What did Tony Soprano once say to Bobby Bacala, that he should “seriously consider salads?”
I’m trying to make it to Taverna Kykaldes in Astoria sometime soon and write a post about the peasant salad, actually. It’s quite good. Or the grilled octopus.
However, there might be something about mashed-potato pizza before that.
–CP
Comment by chris — September 30th, 2008 @ 5:50 pm
P.S. Let us not forget whose idea this was.
Comment by chris — September 30th, 2008 @ 6:02 pm
THAT IS THE BEST BAKERY IN THE WORLD
Comment by ray — April 26th, 2009 @ 3:02 pm
BEST BAKERY IN THE WORLD
Comment by ray — April 26th, 2009 @ 3:05 pm
The Tres leches cake is awesome. Also, I think that the chiken empanadas are better than the beef ones.
What else… pan con queso! That is absolutely wonderful.
Best bakery in town.
Comment by Stef — May 27th, 2009 @ 8:03 pm
Whoa, I love tres leches cake, but I never even noticed it there, maybe I was overwhelmed by everything else…
I’ll have to walk over tomorrow and try it.
–CP
Comment by chris — May 27th, 2009 @ 8:28 pm
P.S. I will say though, that I was over there a couple of weeks ago and for some reason got a churro. It was not so good, lousy actually. I was surprised since I like everything else there.
Comment by chris — May 27th, 2009 @ 8:30 pm
Yo have to ask for a tres leches (almost always on display) and I’m not sure they sell by the slice… they do make to order if you need a bigger cake than they usually bake. They are very helpful and service oriented. I love that about the bakery.
I like the Alfajorcitos de dulce de leche but I have to say a friend of mine has her own recipe and there’s nothing like them!
I find your blog informative, honest and fun to read. Thx!
Comment by Stef — May 28th, 2009 @ 3:35 pm
Hola mi nombre es sebastian soy baker y e trabajado en 5 pastelerias y no he encontrado una como mattwews bakery con la variedad de productos y con tan alta calidad de pasteles como el mocca cake ,mango mouse , rugulach ,fancy cup cakes ,etec muy bueno se los recomiendo
Comment by Sebastian — November 27th, 2011 @ 11:20 pm