Archive for November, 2008

WINTER ROASTING: A POTENTIALLY HAZARDOUS SOLUTION

Saturday, November 29, 2008 by:Chris Preovolos
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My home-roasted espresso blend.

11/29/2008

I roast my own coffee.

This may be the epitome of coffee geekiness, but it really is the only way I can ensure a proper supply of fresh, quality espresso blends for personal consumption.

You would think that Fairfield County with all of its affluence would be fertile ground for real coffee, perhaps a “third-wave” cafe or at the very least access to freshly roasted coffee in the supermarkets.

You would be wrong.

After coming to this sad realization, I set out trying to bribe friends from New York to supply me with beans, I subsequently switched to mail ordering from places like Counter Culture and Intelligentsia and then after quickly recognizing I would go broke air-freighting Black Cat to my doorstep, I settled on home roasting.

The first step in home roasting is generally the use of a popcorn popper as a roaster. They are cheap and available at Target. There are many limitations to this method (the potential for uneven roasts and a extremely limited batch size), but its a good way to start roasting at a minimal cost.

THE CATCH: roasting coffee produces smoke so you really need to do this outside…but it is winter and the cold extends your roast-time, possibly by so much you end up with undesirable/undrinkable coffee.

I Need Coffee has an interesting article on popcorn-popper roasting in the winter. The author is using a cardboard box to recirculate hot air back into the popper for more efficient roasting.

[At this point the LBC would like to note this blog, the Advocate and Hearst Communications shall not be held responsible for any ensuing structure fires and/or personal injury].

Fortunately I moved up to a small Gene Cafe home roaster and the low temperatures present less of a problem. Roast time is still extended but not to the point of failure.

Or you can put it off until spring.

-CP

QUICK READ: JACQUES PEPIN IN THE COURANT

Thursday, November 27, 2008 by:Chris Preovolos
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11/27/2008

My favorite old-school television chef, Jacques Pépin – a Connecticut resident – is featured in a short profile here in the Hartford Courant.

Thankfully he is still around since people like Rachael Ray had to show up and ruin everything.

I’ll admit to watching the Food Network with a high degree of frequency, but I get so annoyed when – to cite a recent example – Rachael Ray makes a casual reference to her maid, making it apparent she thinks all of her viewers have domestic help.

I, for one, do not.

In fact, I’m working on Thanksgiving so I can afford a plane ticket home for Christmas. Which reminds me, I should probably get back to my real job of photographing this really boring football game.

–CP

NOTE: If you are my immediate supervisor and you happen to be reading this post, please understand that it is actually half-time…and thank you for making it possible for me to see my family at Christmas. For this I am grateful. Happy Thanksgiving.

PUMPKIN PIE: THE LBC OVERCOMES STUPIDTY, REDEEMS SELF

Wednesday, November 26, 2008 by:Chris Preovolos
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It ain’t pretty, but that is not really the point.

11/26/2008

I’ve been tasked with making a pumpkin pie for Thanksgiving dinner. Gratefully, I’m not in charge of any of the heavy lifting.

Not really knowing what I’m doing, a family member recommended a recipe from an AP food writer J.M. Hirsch. NOTE: this advice came after my test pie turned into an unmitigated disaster…It’s a long story.

And if you thought it was impossible to do wrong by the instructions on the side of the can – trust me – I am fully capable of screwing up just about anything, no matter how simple.

The Associated Press is not a source I normally tap for recipes, however, check out their multimedia presentation: here.

Incidentally, Christopher Kimball’s vodka pie dough recipe from Cook’s Illustrated seems to do the trick.

UPDATE: As we’d say in the Bay: It’s hella good.

–CP

THE LBC PONDERS THE TURBACONDUCKEN

Wednesday, November 26, 2008 by:Chris Preovolos
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11/26/2008

Bacon-wrapped turducken? For reals?

I’m not saying this is acutally something I would attempt, or even neccesarily want to consume, but I have to give the guys at Bacon Today credit for trying.

Check it out: here.

–CP

ARTOPOLIS BAKERY: ASTORIA’S LAND OF [FILO] AND HONEY

Tuesday, November 25, 2008 by:Chris Preovolos
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Kataifi from Artopolis Bakery in Astoria, Queens.

11/25/2008

ARTOPOLIS BAKERY: 2318 31ST ST., ASTORIA, NY

I don’t know where to start; I can’t come up with the right adjectives to adequately praise the Greek pastries here.

I am without words to describe the feeling I have as I heedlessly dive into a box of kourabiedes and end up with powdered sugar all over my shirt; it is somewhere on the latter end of the scale between delight and euphoria.

Of course the baklava, of which there several varieties, is fantastic.

The kataifi – think baklava but rolled with shredded filo – is a work of art.

Also of import is the galaktoboureko, a custard, delicately flavored with citrus and baked with a thin, flaky layer of filo on top.

[While the galaktoboureko here at Artopolis is superior, it is worth a mention that this dessert is automatically served to each diner at nearby Taverna Kycaldes, whether you order it or not. That is, until the run out, which tends to happen on Sundays.]

Filo and honey are central to Hellenic pastries, but this represents only one side of the bakery, which not only bakes more traditional pies and cakes but also quite a selection of Greek cookies.

This brings me to the kourabiedes. They are spectacular.

Sometimes spelled kourambiethes, the powdered-sugar and almond shortbread cookies are generally considered wedding or holiday cookies; to be reserved for special occasions. Their eminence is confirmed by their prominent placement near the front door and – unlike all the other pastries – behind glass in a custom-built display case, beautifully stacked and bathed in soft light.

Only lesser kourabiedes can be had at Artopolis’ sister location across the East River near Columbia University as it is more cafe than bakery. Here they sell salads, crepes and gelato, among other items not available at the bakery. There is also much more seating and an open patio in the summer.

The cafe shares the same clean, appealing design as the Astoria bakery but the similarity stops there.

Consequentially the Astoria bakery is far superior in terms of pastry and that is all I really care about (I can get mediocre coffee anywhere).

I almost felt cheated after buying $14 worth of kourabiedes in Manhattan. This is not to say that I didn’t happily eat each and every one of them, but comparatively, they are undeserving of the Artopolis name.

After coming to this realization, the next time I visited Artopolis in Astoria I mentioned this disparity to the girl working behind the counter.

She looked at me blankly and said, “well, what do you expect? That is Manhattan.” Then, sensing I didn’t fully understand, she clarified: “of course they are better here, this is Astoria.”

Ah, yes…Athens West.

I should never have strayed.

–CP

NOTE: My grandfather would rightly disown me if I didn’t tell you that the koulorakia here is almost as good as the version that my late grandmother made for most family gatherings. I used to make a somewhat faithful representation, but gave up after I lost access to a stand mixer…I’m still trying to justify buying one but I feel a little guilty after reading this post about Mark Bitman’s kitchen.

THE GINGER MAN: REAL CASK ALE IN NORWALK

Monday, November 24, 2008 by:Chris Preovolos
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Blue Point Brewing Company’s cask-conditioned oatmeal stout at the Ginger Man in Norwalk.

11/24/2008

THE GINGER MAN: 99 WASHINGTON ST., NORWALK

After mentioning my recent experience with the unfiltered, unpasteurized cask-conditioned ales at the Spotted Pig in the West Village, I’d be negligent if I failed to point out that the Ginger Man in Norwalk offers a cask ale that rotates weekly.

I’ve certainly been to the Ginger Man before but somehow never noticed the cask ale. It wasn’t until I saw a recent episode of the new CPTV show, Eating Connecticut, featuring the pub and their admirable selection of beers.

When I stopped by today they were offering an oatmeal stout from Long Island’s Blue Point Brewing Company.

The temperature, flavors and ‘mouthfeel’ of cask ales can be significantly different from the keg beers most people are probably used to. Furthermore, because the beer is not served out of gas-pressurized kegs, but rather hand-pumped out of the keg by the bartender, you won’t get the ‘fizzy’ or overly creamy head as with carbon dioxide or nitrogen pressured kegs or bottles. I suppose this is a personal preference.

Sipping this beer in the dark-paneled pub at midday took me back to my college semester abroad in England, when the bartender at the Saracen’s Head in Bath would pour a cask-conditioned Directors Bitter as soon as I walked in the front door.

This is a good thing; It almost makes me feel like I’m not really at work.

–CP

NOTE: A call placed to the Greenwich location indicates there is no cask ale to be found on The Avenue.

THE SPOTTED PIG: HYPE-WORTHY [THE BURGER, ANYWAY]

Monday, November 24, 2008 by:Chris Preovolos
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Chargrilled burger with Roquefort cheese and shoestring fries (and a pint of cask-conditioned bitter).

11/24/2008

THE SPOTTED PIG: 314 W  11TH ST., NEW YORK CITY

It is with trepidation that I write this post as I realize the LBC is continuing to veer somewhat from the original purpose of this blog.

However, while showing relatives from San Diego a little of New York on Saturday, we stopped in at the Spotted Pig, a “gastropub” in the West Village and with a camera in-hand, I decided I couldn’t pass up the opportunity.

For some time now I have been reading about their legendary Roquefort burger. Having finally had the chance to experience it firsthand, I will report: it is worth the hype.

After reading Frank Bruni’s highly entertaining New York Times slam..err..review, I was expecting the worst in terms of wait time and table service. He gives it one star, which I think is a little unfair and there is quite a bit of Internet controversy over this review which is now two-years old. Principal owner Ken Friedman retorts that one is also the number of Michelin stars his restaurant possesses.

In any case, the reasonable 30-minute wait for brunch was made much easier by the fact the upstairs bar serves two different cask ales. During my visit they were pulling the Spotted Pig Bitter and a brown ale. Both were excellent, served only slightly chilled and in English-style pint mugs. It has been a very long time since I’ve had a real cask-conditioned ale at a pub and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

I really didn’t have to spend much time with the menu as I knew exactly what I was looking for.

And when the burger arrived, in a bun glossy with brushed butter, topped high with Roquefort cheese, and sitting next to a ridiculous pile of super-thin shoestring fries, I knew dragging somewhat reluctant, thin-blooded Californians down here in 26-degree weather was worth it.

The burger is, as you would expect: awesome. At medium-rare, it is requisitely juicy and flavorful, topped with the salty cheese and the fantastic bun.

But the fries…oh, the fries…I am not sure they could be any thinner. This is a dramatic departure from your standard French fry’s ratio of surface area to interior potato thus allowing for a great deal more oil penetration. I think this is what we are going for here, ultra-crisp seasoned fries. Exceptional.

It should also be noted they are tossed with a great deal of whole rosemary leaves and thin, fried slices of garlic gloves which add a brilliant kick of flavor.

Now fully satisfied with my meal and still running off of a little caffeine-high from a couple espresso drinks at Cafe Grumpy, I was fully prepared to endure the cold…and the trip to some fabric store that apparently has something to do with Project Runway…

–CP

P.S. I promise to get something up here other than cheeseburgers very soon, but as you can tell, they are my weakness.

GMA PIE UPDATE: WINNER ANNOUNCED SUNDAY

Monday, November 24, 2008 by:Chris Preovolos
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11/22/2008/

UDAPTE: Norma Grubb’s coconut creme pie from Sommerset Hall Cafe in Dover, Kan. was voted in at number one in the GMA pie challenge Sunday.

As previously reported on the LBC, Michele’s Pies, of Norwalk, is competing in Good Morning America’s “Best Slice” contest.

Check out the contest page, while there is still time to vote and to view Michele Albano’s recipe for the award-winning chocolate chip bourbon pecan pie.

The winner will be announced tomorrow, Sunday, Nov. 23, live on the show.

–CP

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