Archive for June, 2009

WALKING FOR LOBSTER

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lobster

ABOVE: The $9.99 “lobster dinner” from Stew Leonard’s Grill at Calf Pasture Beach, seved with corn on the cob, drawn butter and a view of the beach.

6/29/2009

I’m a glass-half-empty kind of guy. So when I’m complaining about how I have to get up at 6 a.m. to meet a reporter for an assignment that requires walking through the mud and sand and who knows what else as part of our Breaking the Sound Barrier series, I tend to ignore all the good things.

Good things like being out of the office, working on my farmer’s tan and exploring new corners of my adopted state.

And the lobster.

When I found out my leg of the trek would take me to Calf Pasture Beach in Norwalk, I knew one thing: I would be having lobster for lunch and I would not be paying for it and this would make me happy.

As I sat in the cool shade, pulling the crustacean apart, wrenching the sweet meat from its rigid shell, I looked out to the beach, past the leafy trees and busy playground, and out onto the Long Island Sound and the Norwalk Islands. Children, beachgoers, sailors at once enjoying the mild afternoon.

The simple meal provided not only a respite from the day’s long walk, but was also a celebration of the season. This is summer and I was happy, if momentarily.

–CP

WATCH THE VIDEO: of course, my video camera’s battery died before lunch.


SUMMER OF SALSA: EPISODE THREE, GUAVA, LIME AND ANCHO CHILES

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ancho

Maggie chips in with another Summer of Salsa recipe. I guess it doesn’t always work out how you’d like it [see post], but I guess that’s all part of the learning process. Do any of you have any salsa recipes you’d like to share?

–CP

Summer of Salsa: Guava, lime, ancho chile salsa

Welcome to installment three of our summer of salsa. To recap, CP and I are celebrating summer by making a salsa every week (Please add a link to the last post). All our recipes are from the book Nueva Salsa by Rafael Palomino and Arlen Gargagliano.

This week I navigated guava, lime and ancho chile salsa on my own, and had a bit of trouble, so be sure to read the precautionary tale below before you try this at home.

HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED:

2 ancho chiles
1-pound bar guava paste, diced
juice of 2 limes
kosher salt to taste

THE BOOK SAID:

“In a medium saucepan of boiling water, cook the chiles for about eight minutes, or until softened. Drain and let cool to the touch. Dice.

In a medium bowl, combine the chiles and diced guava paste. Stir in the lime juice, salt, and pepper. Let sit for about 20 minutes before serving.”

Sounds so easy, right? Well, let me tell you, this took me well over an hour.

First, I think I cooked the ancho chiles too long. I was using nice, fresh chiles my husband’s parents had brought from Mexico, and after 8 minutes they were so soft the outer skin was peeling right off. I spent a lot of effort trying to cut them into slices and peel off the skin when warranted.

Also, I scraped the seeds out, assuming the book had simply neglected to mention this step, then later reversed course.

Cutting the guava paste was a breeze, but after mixing everything together and tasting it I regretted cutting them into half-inch cubes. NOTE: Guava paste is basically pure sugar, and it tastes like it. Given that I prefer salty to sweet, I could have gone for much less guava paste in every bite. And I only used half of a slightly-less-than-one-pound bar.

In the end, this was my least favorite salsa so far, mostly due to the sweetness. To be honest, when I first saw this recipe I envisioned using fresh guava, and I think if you could find guavas in your grocery store, that would be excellent. Per the book, I paired the salsa with chicken, and every once in a while, when I got a bite of smoky ancho chile with lime juice and salt, that tasted great.

MY RECOMMENDATION: go fresh or reduce the paste by a large portion unless you are a sugar fanatic.

–Magdalene Perez

SLOW ROASTED TOMATOES

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tomatoes2

ABOVE: Roasted tomatoes and garlic.

6/26/2009

A QUICK UPDATE IN THE “IT’S-STILL-THE-FIRST-WEEK-OF-SUMMER” VEIN: Slow roasted tomatoes.

It doesn’t take a genius to figure this one out [read: even I can do this].

Halve a bunch of grape or cherry tomatoes, put them on a baking sheet with some whole, unpeeled garlic cloves.

Season and drizzle with olive oil.

Throw all this into an oven dialed way down to 225 for three hours.

Eat.

DISCLAIMER: This is stolen from Smitten Kitchen, who has some ideas for usage here, or you can just eat them as-is, like I did.

–CP

BOCCE NIGHT: BRING ON THE STEAK SANDWICHES

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bocce1

ABOVE: Augustino Scicchitano, left, watches a bocce game while Nick Eisanelli and Dominic Schinella, enjoy steak sandwiches during bocce league night at the Minturnese Social Club.

6/24/2009

After rushing back on an express train from New York today, I arrived at Springdale station just in time for bocce night at the Minturnese Social Club. League nights started two weeks ago but I was out of town the first week and bocce was rained out last Wednesday.

Today, despite the day-long sporadic precipitation, we rolled.

2009 marks the inaugural year for team “i Advocati,” the newsroom’s bocce team and we are off to a poor start thus far, with a perfect 0-6 record. Apparently, years of experience on our opponent’s behalf is getting the better of our youthful exuberance.

Nevertheless, we had a hell of a good time, getting tips from the guys, drinking Peronis and eating steak sandwiches. Tony Cardillo and Tony Rizzi were manning the grill, serving up the sandwiches with your choice of sweet or hot peppers. The hot peppers, a Peruvian variety, come from Rizzi’s garden down the street and tip the Scovile scale more than enough for my palate.

I played bocce a little in college and it’s slowly coming back to me. Now, I just have to learn how to swear in Italian.

BELOW: Sam Laria rolls his way to a clean 3-0 sweep of the Advocate team.

bocce2

AN UNI ADDENDUM: MOMOFUKU SSAM BAR

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6/24/2009

MOMOFUKU SSAM BAR: 207 2ND AVE, NEW YORK

I made my first trip to celebrated chef David Chang’s Momofuku Ssam Bar in the East Village with my friend Ali last night – primarily to experience the legendary steamed pork buns firsthand.

The buns, stuffed with rich pork belly and pickles – what former chief Times restaurant critic Frank Bruni called “the city’s most perfect finger food” – are a sublime tribute to fat and salt and certainly lived up to expectations.

But my favorite dish was the Santa Barbara uni, served with slivers of fennel in a wonderful briny, green, nori broth. The uni – red sea urchin roe – was amazing in its own right, ultra creamy and sweet, but combined with the broth, became the highlight of my meal.

So with this, Ali Fenwick, a good friend and News21 fellow, became an honorary member of The Uni Brotherhood.

As we were settling up the bill, Ali took a look at the check and remarked astutely, “that is the best itemized receipt ever.”

AND IT WAS:

Manhattan cocktail

Santa Barbara uni

Steamed buns

Seasonal pickles

P.E.I. Mussels

Crispy pig’s head (don’t ask)

Ice cream pie

–CP

SUMMER OF SALSA: EPISODE TWO

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salsa

ABOVE: Red snapper with roasted jalapeño and citrus salsa.

6/21/2009

Today is the first official day of summer and Magdalene Perez and I are bringing you our second installment of the Summer of Salsa series. This week we made a roasted jalapeño and citrus salsa, which owing to our knifework, didn’t turn out a pretty as it could have but brought an interesting mix of sweet, sour and heat. Its liquidity also helped out a little with the snapper, which I managed to overcook in the broiler.

–CP

Ready for spicy? Roasted Jalapeño and Citrus Salsa. Yow!

To recap, CP and I are celebrating summer by making a salsa every week for 12 weeks. All our recipes are from the book Nueva Salsa by Rafael Palomino and Arlen Gargagliano.

For week two, we decided to go spicy, with the Roasted Jalapeño and Citrus Salsa. We cooked it with red snapper, though any mild white fish will do.

HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED:

2 jalapeño chiles
3 oranges
1 grapefruit
1 lemon
1 lime
2 tablespoons of soybean oil [canola or peanut oil is okay too]
kosher salt to taste
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon ¼ inch diagonally cut green onions
1 nice cut of red snapper
1 plastic or paper bag

The recipe says this makes 2 cups, but we found it makes much more, so feel free to cut this whole thing in half if you’re not feeding more than 2 people.

First, you want to roast your chiles. Stick the chile on the end of a fork, turn on your stove and stand there rotating until it is nice and black on all sides. We tag-teamed this part to make it go faster.

Then, place the chiles in your paper or plastic bag and close it. Let the chiles cool for about 10 minutes, then pull out the stems and rub off the black skin. Cut the chiles in half and remove the seeds with a fork or knife.

The book says you don’t want to rinse the seeds out with water because it will lose flavor, but we don’t recommend using your fingers like the book says – you don’t want to rub that stuff in your eyes!

While your chiles are cooling, you can start prepping your fruit. First, zest one orange. If you are using a fancy zester or grater, be careful not to zest your finger like I did!

Cut the peel off all the fruits [deep enough that you are getting to the juicy part] cut into segments and halve.

Cut your onions. [We had a big dispute about this, I said the onion bottoms were fine, Chris argued in favor of the green tops, like the recipe directs. Go for what ever you want. Personally I love any kind of onions, and think you can double or triple the amount to your taste.]

When your chiles are cooled and seeded, dice them.

In a large bowl, combine the chiles, orange zest, and citrus segments. Stir in the oil, salt and sugar. Let sit for about 20 minutes, then stir in the green onions and serve.

THE FISH:

Cook your fish however you want. We broiled it:

Preheat your oven to broil. Rub salt and pepper on your fish [ours had the skin on one side]. Place it on a broiler pan and stick it in the oven. To tell if it was done, make sure the thickest part of the fillet flakes with a fork.

Having personally only deep fried, pan fried, grilled and poached fish before, clearly, we winged it.

THE VERDICT:

Before eating, I had the suspicion that this was going to be a pretty boring salsa. It’s just a bunch of fruit, right? But the jalapeño really does its part to add kick. You will be surprised by the spice. Tasted great with the snapper, and a side of simply roasted red potatoes with salt, pepper, olive oil and dried rosemary. [Apparently, I wasn't super dilliegent in scraping all the seeds out of the peppers and caught at least couple with a bite of fish, forcing me to run to the fridge for a third Sierra Nevada. CP.]

I say, cut the amount in half and this will be a quick meal for when you don’t feel like pulling out all the stops.

See you next week, when we go even more Mexican with Guava, Lime and Ancho chile salsa.

–Magdalene Perez

QUICK MINI CHOCOLATE SOUFFLES

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souffle

ABOVE: My mini-chocolate soufflé, already slightly deflated just seconds out of the oven.

6/20/2009

If you missed today’s episode of America’s Test Kitchen on PBS and have any interest whatsoever in dessert, you should head over to their homepage and check out the recipe for the “make-ahead” chocolate soufflé.

DISCLAIMER: Until this morning the only thing I knew about soufflé came from an episode of All in the Family where Edith manages to screw it up, much to Archie’s disdain (of course).

I made a batch today using what I had on hand, subbing Toll House chips for the Trader Joe’s bittersweet chocolate I usually have and Cointreau for Grand Marnier. They didn’t rise as much as I would have liked, but my egg white folding technique was a little heavy-handed.

The best part about this recipe is that you can make it ahead of time, portion the mixture into ramekins and freeze them. This way, you can pop them into a hot oven whenever you want and you are 16-minutes away from dessert.

TRY IT YOURSELF: Using the ATK’s recipe.

–CP

SUPER DUPER WEENIE: NOT FOR THOSE ALLERGIC TO AWESOME

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superduper
ABOVE: A New Englander dog and some of the best fries around, at Super Duper Weenie in Fairfield.

6/18/2009

SUPER DUPER WEENIE: 306 BLACK ROCK TURNPIKE, FAIRFIELD

It’s pretty clear my New Year’s resolution to no longer eat mediocre french fries was defenestrated months ago. But this isn’t really a problem at Super Duper Weenie, as these fries fall into the category of awesome.

Super Duper was on my way to work when I lived [briefly] in Bridgeport so I have had my fair share of Chicagoans – hot dogs slathered in spicy mustard and homemade relish. These days, I don’t get up to Black Rock Turnpike much, but I happened to be passing through one day this week and had to stop in.

A day earlier, I was high over the Midwest on a Jetblue redeye when the girl seated next to me tuned her chair-back t.v. to the Food Network’s  Diners Drive-Ins and Dives, which happened to be airing a segment about Super Duper Weenie. I hadn’t said a word to her the entire flight, but suddenly blurted out,”Dude, those are some damn good hotdogs.”

She, of course, thought I was a crazy person and ignored me, but I speak the truth: those are some damn good hotdogs. So when I was nearing exit 24 on I-95, I  knew I had to drop in for a hot dog.

On this visit I was persuaded by an Advocate editor to try the New Englander, despite the fact that I don’t like sauerkraut. The fermented cabbage slop I’ve always steered clear of is homemade here at Super Duper and is actually quite pleasant.

That said, next time I will return to my old standby, the Chicagoan, a dog with Super Duper’s exquisite spicy relish, an ultra-crisp pickle wedge, lettuce, tomato and onions. An absolute classic.

–CP

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