ABOVE: Kerry’s chicken paella, prepared on a charcoal grill in her backyard last week.
6/4/2009
In an effort to make the LBC more robust, I’ve enlisted the help of a few gastronomically-inclined friends and coworkers. While not professionals by any means, these are the people I frequently consult when I run into trouble in the kitchen, which is an almost daily occurrence.
FIRST UP: Kerry Sherck, a freelance photographer and enthusiastic home cook, teaches me about the Valencian dish, paella.
–CP
ABOVE: Kerry toasts Italian [gasp] arborio rice in the sofrito, not the traditional Spanish arroz bomba, which can be more difficult to find.
KERRY’S TAKE ON PAELLA: Making paella is one of those things – like burgers or pizza – that can be a contentious undertaking. Maybe not here in Fairfield County, but definitely in Spain and in Spanish restaurants around the U.S. There are debates about what ingredients should be mixed, the best pan to use, how thick should the rice be, and even how to eat it.
I learned to make paella from a master. Sarah Jay, former managing editor of Fine Cooking, runs a business selling paella pans and other imports from Spain. And she makes a damn good paella.
Years ago Jay lived with a family in Granada, Spain, where every Sunday was paella night. As a result, she follows the rules she learned there, and I, as one of her protégées, follow some of the same basic principles:
– Never mix chicken and seafood in the same paella [recipes for both on her website]
– Keep the rice layer relatively thin
– Don’t serve the paella onto plates, guests get a fork and eat directly out of the pan
Eating out of the pan creates an intimate dining experience, and a quick study of the leftover paella says a lot about the people at the table. Besides knowing who ate the most, the remaining rice borders speak to the relationships between the people at the table. [Couples generally break down rice borders that stand between them; acquaintances may not.]
Since paellas ordered in restaurants can often be disappointing, I usually resort to making my own. There are, however, local restaurants that specialize in paella. Among them are La Paella Tapas Bar and Restaurant and Meigas Restaurant, both in the Norwalk Wall Street area; and Barcelona, which has locations throughout Fairfield County.
As Jay says, occasionally the “stars will align” and your paella will be a stellar one. I remember bending over a hot pan with my fork on a 98 degree afternoon years ago at her house, and not even noticing the heat. A solid 10.
–Kerry Sherck
HAPPENING THIS WEEKEND: This Sunday, June 7, the “Paella Parade” will take place at Pier 17, South Street Seaport. Ten NYC chefs from Spanish restaurants will be making huge paellas (in 36-inch pans) and members of the public will get to vote on which one is best. There’s going to be Spanish wine and Spanish cheese for tasting. The event runs from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. and tickets are $25 [purchase in advance, or at the door]
ON DECK: Maggie Perez, a staff writer at the Advocate, brings us her first post in a series about summer salsas.
