Lola’s Mexican Kitchen: A newcomer to the Mexican scene

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LOLA’S MEXICAN KITCHEN: 135 BEDFORD STREET, STAMFORD

The sleek, modern feel of Lola’s in downtown Stamford is apparent as soon as you walk in; it’s clear this is meant to be a place with a vibrant bar scene and plenty of margaritas. But sometimes I just want a decent taco.

This blog is about sharing what I love about food and dining in and around Lower Fairfield County, but occasionally I feel the need to be honest.

Other than the typical spread of reviews on Yelp or Open Table, I didn’t really know anything about Lola’s. Based on the decor and the recent crop of “high-end” Mexican places (Bartaco, Red Lulu, Lolita’s, etc.), I was surprised it was on the lower-tier of the Stamford Restaurant Weeks pricing scheme. Then again, it’s Mexican food, so it’s not supposed to be expensive and I wanted to give it a shot.

Suffice it to say, I was disappointed.

The fact the flautas were sitting in a pool of straight-up barbecue sauce was not a good sign — and the carne asada tacos tasted vaguely like McCormick’s Taco Seasoning — but the real deal breaker was the carnitas. (The fish tacos were the best of the three I had, but not as good as those at El Charrito)

Not to get on any kind of crazy taco soapbox and demand that carnitas be braised for hours in a vat of pork fat by a Mexican abuelita or anything, but it needs resemble — in some semi-meaningful fashion — the dish for which it is named. It cannot be a sliced pork chop on a cold flour tortilla.

This is not carnitas, this is disingenuous.

Connecticut has never been a hot spot for Mexican food, but with new restaurants that understand how to approach the cuisine and old favorites like Casa Villa that turn out happy customers on a daily basis, it’s a letdown that the food here was so lackluster.

Selling good margaritas and providing a beautiful, contemporary feel in a great location with attentive staff is certainly a piece of what makes a good modern Mexican joint, but Connecticut diners should be given a little more credit. I remain hopeful.

–CP

Categories: General

9 Responses

  1. So they DO have good margaritas? That’s important!

    Still, I always go to Boxcar Cantina in Greenwich. I’m sure there’s nothing authentic about it, but it’s good quality ingredients and I think the food’s tasty.

  2. Tamales says:

    I agree. Just plain bad. Even more disappointing that they replaced Egane. The one and only Korean restaurant in town.

  3. Sarah says:

    In the spirit of Mexican food…

    http://newyorkknowsbest.wordpress.com/2011/03/15/real-mexican-food-at-real-mexican-prices/

    New York finally has some decent and authentic Mexican food to feed the stomach and soothe the soul :)

  4. Amy says:

    It’s tough to beat Casa Villa and El Charrito in a town like Stamford. Good luck to anyone trying. Luckily it sounds like their margs may be worth a trip.

  5. Steve W says:

    I wholeheartedly DISAGREE with Chris’s review. With the exception of their tacos, Lola’s is great. In the past two weeks, I’ve been to Lola’s three times, and have not been disappointed. I recommend the shrimp quesadilla and the shrimp with rice dish. The chips and salsa are delicious. The margaritas are tasty, if a bit pricey. I highly recommend that you check them out before restaurant week ends. Just don’t go for the tacos.

  6. pastor666 says:

    A shame to hear, considering that Egane (the restaurant Lola’s replaced in that space) was rather great Korean food.

  7. LIz says:

    well done.

  8. Foodlove75 says:

    Couldn’t agree with you more. The hubby and I tried it a few weeks ago and although we like the decor and the bar scene, the food was mediocre at best. With El Charrito and Casa Villa in town, we expect better!

  9. KZone8 says:

    So the best thing was that it was served on Fiestaware?

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