ABOVE: Plain cheese pie from Colony Grill in Fairfield. Please excuse the crummy cell phone photograph.
COLONY GRILL (FAIRFIELD): 1520 POST ROAD, FAIRFIELD
When I first heard a second location was in the works for Colony Grill, Stamford’s legendary Myrtle Street bar and pizza place (in the most literal sense), I believe my first words to LBC’s own Chris Preovolos were “please tell me this is a joke” followed immediately by “I’ll never go there.” Colony had always struck me as the kind of place that could not and would not be duplicated. Like many a Colony fan, I didn’t want to believe it.
Nearly a year later, curiosity and circumstance conspired to bring me to Colony in Fairfield, and I gave in.
The first thing I noticed was how large the Fairfield location is in comparison to Stamford. It wasn’t brightly lit (I went after dark), but I imagine it gets a lot more light during the day than Stamford.
At 8 p.m. on a Thursday night, the place was quite busy, so I made my way to the bar and wedged myself into the last available spot. Not one, but two friendly bartenders took attentive care of me (a definite change from the tepid attitude of the busy staff in Stamford). I ordered a plain cheese pie and watched the “highlights” from the Mets’ second loss in one day while I waited.
The pizza was definitely Colony: Thin crust, sauce to the edge, and dappled cheese, but it wasn’t quite up to snuff with the original. My pie was a bit undercooked, making the dough at once rubberier and flakier than the original. To be fair, I only had the one, so I’ll have to return for a second sample. I also didn’t try the hot oil, but I overheard a patron at the bar saying it doesn’t have the same bite in Fairfield as the original.
As I asked for the check, I noticed possibly the biggest difference between the two locations: Colony Grill Fairfield takes credit cards.
Overall, the Fairfield location is definitely a worthy addition to the downtown landscape, especially with the tangy allure of neighboring Pinkberry for dessert, but I’ll take the original location by a nose.