Archive for the ‘General’ Category

The Stamford-bar-pizza challenge

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STAMFORD — When Rico’s (now Riko’s) opened and claimed to have a Colony-style pie that could top the original, we balked. I vehemently defended Colony as a Stamford institution and the purveyor of the gold-standard of the Stamford bar pizza.

Things have changed.

Riko’s has opened up a second shop in Newfield and Ridgeway Pizza has begun to sell Colony-style pies. I began getting cryptic all-caps emails from the owner of Ridgeway Pizza shortly after Riko’s opened, stating they would be the new kings of the pan pizza in Stamford.

Naturally, a taste test was in order.

At the behest of Brett Mickelson, the executive producer of the Hearst Connecticut Media Group’s interactive team, we lined up seven pies from the three pizzerias and dug in.

The results were not all that surprising, though we only slightly preferred Colony over Riko’s. Ridgeway was a distant last — as sports producer Sean Bowley described it, “basically the cheapest knock off…like Stop & Shop brand cola versus Coke or Pepsi.”

It’s hard to discern the difference between Colony and Riko’s though there are visual cues to the look of the crust. In the end, the main advantage Colony had over Riko’s was the hot oil, which was noticeably hotter and more flavorful in the original. We also thought Riko’s had a little too much sauce.

Given that Riko’s also uses the same sausage and other toppings as Colony, I may be willing to withdraw my passionate appeal for Colony and call it a case of personal (though still passionate) preference — but the Ridgeway pie was just not up to the comparison.

First off, the sauce was too sweet, having a disagreeable tomato-paste quality, the cheese was too sparse and the sausage, being ground was borderline tasteless.

Ultimately, for a takeout pie, proximity to either Colony or Riko’s may be the deciding factor.

Colony, however, certainly wins in the atmosphere and overall experience category.

So there is it, the final word on the great Stamford pan-pizza debate…hopefully we can put this to bed…I’m beginning to tire of the drama.

Bodega Taco Bar is coming to Darien

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ABOVE: Bodega Taco Bar in Fairfield.

When Ole Mole in Darien closed, the town lost it’s only Mexican eatery — and even that was short lived. But the town is poised to see the second location of the popular Bodega Taco Bar land on the Post Road.

Last year, restauranteurs Mario Fontana, Michael Young and Luis Chavez opened the first Bodega in Fairfield to critical success. Soon after Young and Chavez expanded their ever-popular Valencia Luncheria in Norwalk.

But they didn’t stop here: Bodega is coming to 980 Post Road in Darien this fall.

“We think Darien has some similar characteristics as Fairfield, so we were excited. It’s going to be a great place,” said Fontana, who first worked with Young and Chavez with Ocean Drive and Habana in South Norwalk.

“The restaurant in Fairfield is a booming success. Bodega serves modern Mexican and we stray to South and Central America, so it’s a much more varied menu and is much more creative than what a traditional Mexican restaurant would be. It brings the experience to a whole new level,” he added.

David Genovese of Baywater Properties, the building’s owner, felt the fit was right too.

“We’ve been trying to find the right restaurant for that space. We didn’t want to lease to any old restaurant, we wanted something that would compliment the area,” Genovese said after explaining that he had been approached with more than one proposal for an Italian restaurant.

It’s also a win for fans of sidewalk dining, as Bodega will become only the second restaurant — after Scena — to have waited tables on the Post Road in Darien.

“It drastically improves the curb appeal of a restaurant and is something customers really love,” said Fontana.

The space became available with the exit of Café D’Azur and Genovese, who had been talking on-and-off with Fontana for a few years, made the deal with the trio.

“When Mario and Michael and Luis got Bodega going, we thought this would be a nice addition to the town,” said Genovese, adding, ”It’s an exciting change, Bodega in Fairfield has been a very successful restaurant. It’s going to be transformative.”

Moe’s pizza joint: Tomatillo out, Cortina in in Bridgeport

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CORTINA: 960 MAIN STREET, BRIDGEPORT

Tomatillo, we hardly knew ye.

A few short months after Moe Gad opened this new Tomatillo location, he decided to switch up the cuisine from burritos to pizza.

Moe told me this had a lot to do with the fact that, by his estimation, 90 percent of folks in Bridgeport will eat pizza, while only half will eat a burrito.

The new Cortina, an offshoot of the restaurant formerly known as Pizzeria Rosso in Norwalk, offers a broad menu of Italian dishes ordered at the counter including both New York style and Napoletana pizza.

For lunch, I tried the NY style cheese pizza. A slice during a lunch break will hit the spot, but don’t expect an exquisite dining experience.

I’ll have to head back to try the Margherita.

Say it with me: Galaktoboureko

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I get pretty excited about pastry, but few things get me as worked up as galaktoboureko — and now I can get it in New Canaan.

Forget baklava, kourambiethes, loukoumades, kataifi and koulorakia, this light, sweet custard encased in layer after layer of buttery phyllo is the pinnacle of Greek dessert.

I make out-of-the-way detours to Astoria anytime I’m in Queens or Brooklyn for galaktoboureko at Artopolis Bakery. I once rented a scooter to ride across the Cycladic island of Naxos for galaktoboureko in Apiranthos. For some reason, however, it has taken me a while to make it up to Kouzina in New Canaan.

Now that I know how good it is, I’ll be going back.

Galaktoboureko is fairly simple to make as long as you are comfortable with phyllo and  the warm custard — made from fine semolina or farina — makes for  the ultimate comfort food. Take that and add layers of phyllo and a sugar syrup and you’re in business.

Kouzina’s version is very good. The custard is light and the layers of phyllo a decadently buttery and flaky. My only crticisim is that I think it could do with a little orange zest in the custard or used to steep in the sugar syrup. But this is a matter of personal preference, a lot of yia-yias don’t make it that way.

In any case, it’s worth checking out.

Heartland Brewery ‘beer hall’ coming to Port Chester

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(Flickr.com/MattHurst)

MTA PRESS RELEASE:

The historic 1890 train station building in the heart of Port Chester’s downtown is about to get a new tenant – a food hall and beer garden by the popular Heartland Brewery.

MTA Metro-North Railroad announced its plans today to lease the 5,630-square-foot station building.

“This restaurant will be a positive addition to the village’s downtown business district and will provide economic vitality to the area around the train station seven days a week from morning to night,” said Metro-North President Howard Permut. “This arrangement is consistent with Metro-North’s ongoing efforts to operate more efficiently and to provide better customer service. It will provide cost savings to Metro-North and improve service to our customers by making the station available to them for shelter, restrooms and coffee service.”

“This project is very exciting for me as I’m both a restaurateur and avid gardener. Designing a restaurant in this historic building and working with a designer and a landscape architect together on the food hall and beer garden is something I have always wanted,” said Jon Bloostein, founder and CEO of Heartland Brewery.

“As a tribute to the locale, the restaurant will be named Port Chester Hall. It will offer a diverse menu and a full bar featuring a special selection of beers locally brewed in New York State. We will preserve the existing mosaic and stone floor and include the oak benches in our furniture plan. The landscaped outdoor area will be approximately 3,600 square feet,” Bloostein added.

“It is exciting that Heartland Brewery has selected Port Chester for their first expansion location outside of New York City,” said Port Chester Mayor Dennis G. Pilla. “Their brand has strong positive recognition and is on target with the young professionals we seek to attract to Port Chester.”

Heartland plans to make $1.2 million worth of long-term infrastructure improvements to the19th century brick building including new natural gas service, commercial-grade air conditioning, upgraded plumbing, electric, and mechanical systems and new lighting consistent with the design of the station.

In addition, plans call for reconstructing a porte-cochere above the main door which was removed but will be recreated using old photos of the station. Heartland will work closely with the State Historic Preservation Office in developing its restoration plans.

“Heartland’s significant capital investment and upgraded utilities will provide long-term benefit to Metro-North,” Permut noted.

In addition, Heartland will assume responsibility for executing, at Metro-North’s expense under its current Capital Program and subject to Metro-North oversight, replacement of the roof, rehabilitation of the chimneys and repointing of the exterior walls.

Last year, Metro-North completed improvement to the station platforms, shelters, ramps and staircases. All 38 windows were repaired and repainted and all 17 wooden doors were replaced in kind.

Heartland’s food and beer hall will seat about 85 people and will be open seven days a week. Although Heartland is primarily a lunch and dinner establishment, they have agreed to operate a coffee concession from 6 a.m. to 11a.m. on weekdays to accommodate Metro-North customers. The ticket office will remain open due to high usage.

Heartland owns and operates seven restaurant/brewpubs in New York City, including one at the Port Authority Bus Terminal, and is planning two others in addition to the one in Port Chester.

Bloostein’s business plan calls for a unique employee incentive.

“It pleases me that Port Chester Hall also will be owned and operated by the Heartland ESOP, so every employee, mostly Westchester residents, will participate in our Employee Stock Ownership Plan,” Bloostein said.

The building is eligible for listing on the New York State and National Registers of Historic Places. Heartland hopes to begin construction in January and open in June 2013.

Heartland responded to a request for proposals by the MTA Real Estate Department and was determined to be the best deal for the railroad. Rent will be $80,000 for the first year of a 20-year net lease with annual increases of 3% a year.

The proposed lease will be recommended Monday to the Metro-North and Finance Committees of the board of the Metropolitan Transportation Authority. The MTA Board will vote on it on Wednesday.

Metro-North will create six angled, short-term, metered spaces directly in front of the building in what is now a very wide drive aisle. Under the lease, 10 parking spaces for restaurant employees will be provided in the nearby garage, where Metro-North owns an interest in one floor of the garage. Restaurant customers also can park in empty commuter spaces after typical commuter hours.

Bar Rosso: New management, new menu, all Italian

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ABOVE: Giovanni Gentile, right, and Rosario Procino

UPDATE: You can check out the new menu here.

Giovanni Gentille jokingly calls his new venture “The Italian Job.”

If you don’t know Giovanni personally, you have undoubtedly seen him. As the owner of Capriccio Café and newcomer Volta Gelateria, Giovanni is the unofficial mayor of downtown Stamford. And now he has added Bar Rosso to his lineup.

Opened last year by the owners of Napa & Co. — widely considered to be one of Stamford’s finest restaurants — Giovanni is taking over this popular Spring Street destination. First and foremost, he is eager to point out, is that they are now 100% Italian. Gentile, a native of Bari is joined by Rosario Procino, of Naples, who just left the much lauded Kesté Pizza & Vino in New York’s West Village and chef Pasquale Sorangelo.

Bar Rosso is rolling out its new menu tonight, and while I have taken a peek, the only thing I can actually report on at this point is the pizza…which will blow you away. True, I waxed poetically about Tappo when the opened (and have been back many times since), but this is on a whole other plane.

The four or five times I’ve been to Bar Rosso have been pretty enjoyable. I liked the pasta, I loved the burger and the small plates were very good and inventive. The big disappointment was the pizza. I kept trying it, thinking that maybe I just had just visited on a bad night, however, the crust was always too heavy and too chewy.

The reinvented pizza at Bar Rosso features a spectacularly light and delicate crust, an amazingly simple sauce and top-notch ingredients. You owe it to yourself to try this.

This afternoon, Bar Rosso was busily preparing for the new menu rollout as the line churned out the new dishes for the front of the house staff to see. I heard a few choice words I normally only hear on the bocce court thrown about, but Giovanni assures me they will be ready tonight, and for a public grand ‘opening’ celebration on May 12.

I’m also assured that the new menu will be friendlier on your wallet, which is always a welcome change.

BELOW: Why you need to go see the changes at Bar Rosso

Typical lunch conversation at Enzo’s

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Me: You know “other Maggie,” right?

Salvatore: Yea.

Me: She’s left us.

Salvatore: You heard she died?

Me: What? No.

Salvatore: She’s a cow.

Me: I wouldn’t  call her…

Salvatore: No, I mean she’s a real cow. She was old and had no teeth.

Me: Well, anyway…

Melt: Come for the cheese, stay for everything else

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MELT MARKET + CAFE: 7 LAFAYETTE CIRCLE, BRIDGEPORT

Melt, not to be confused with newcomer Melt Mobile in Stamford, opened earlier this year just up the road from the Connecticut Post, so naturally I had to check it out.

Our own Lee Steele and Eileen Fischer beat me to it, as did CT Bites, but they all missed the most important thing: Raclette.

Raclette is a Swiss dish made with melted raclette cheese over potatoes. I guess whoever came up with the dish was too busy taking a cheese-and-potato-induced nap to think of a real name. That’s alright because it’s fantastic.

I talked to owner Damon Itin about it and, it turns out, not many people seem to know about raclette, so he rarely prepares it. This is criminal. Consider this a call to action, Bridgeport: Go to Melt and demand raclette. You won’t regret it. In the meantime, you can get your fix at Swizz in Manhattan.

Other offerings include sandwiches, salads, macaroni and cheese, and soup. In addition to the café menu, Melt will sell you everything from cheese and meat platters to fondue sets (hence the “market” part of the name).

I tried the Vermont cheddar, apple, and chutney melt and my only complaint was that it could have spent a few more seconds in the grill press. The ingredients were fresh, bread was great, and cheese was just sharp enough. Melt is a welcome addition to the Bridgeport lunch spot roster.