The Lunch Break Chronicles

10/6/2008

Venerable Portland, Ore. coffee company Stumptown Coffee Roasters has expanded eastward with a new roasting operation in Brooklyn. The ‘third-wave’ roaster is supplying 9th St. Espresso where I picked up 12-oz. of their very bright Yirgacheffe Kaleb Kocherie.

Light, and floral with a delicate mouthfeel, the Yirg is a very distinctive Ethiopian single-origin that will not disappoint. The company will tell you that – among other things – there are hints of “watermelon juice” in the finish, but go ahead and try it for yourself; the next time you see Yirgacheffe on a menu give it a shot. It’s one of the few reasons I break my espresso addiction and go with the press-pot (or lately a single-cup cone dripper).

–CP

Photo/Chris Preovolos

10/4/2008

NICKY’S VIETNAMESE SANDWICHES: 150 EAST 2ND ST, NEW YORK

While sitting at a tiny wrought-iron table at Nicky’s Vietnamese Sandwiches in New York City yesterday I noticed my friend was looking at me funny.

What? Did I have food on my face? Admittedly, I was attacking my sandwich with little regard for table manners. Then came the realization: she was indicating that this sandwich belonged on the food blog.

I attended college in San Jose, which has the largest Vietnamese-American population of any city in the country, and my lunches frequently consisted of phở and other noodle dishes. However, I never tried Vietnamese sandwiches because I couldn’t get past the unfortunate name of the most popular sandwich shop there (which was pronounced the same as a particular Nazi concentration camp). OK…I now realize this is completely irrational, perhaps culturally insensitive and most importantly, that I’ve been totally missing out.

Both of us ordered the Classic Vietnamese Sandwich ($5) with pâté, ham, pickled vegetables and lots of cilantro on a baguette. Say ‘yes’ when they ask if you want it spicy. Bottles of Sriracha hot chili sauce weren’t on the tables but were eagerly provided upon request.

The baguette makes it. I haven’t had a sandwich on a baguette quite this good in a while; crispy and chewy and of the perfect density for this sandwich. I guess Franco colonialism had some lasting positive effects.

My biggest regret was ordering a canned soda instead of the fresh lemonade.

Oh yeah, next time I am definetly going to try the pork chop sandwich.

–CP

I have to say I’m impressed that Monster B’s Bar & Grille has Old Rasputin Russian Imperial Stout (on tap) from North Coast Brewing in Fort Bragg, Mendocino County, Calif.

“A sweet, very yeasty stout with both toasted and fruity overtones. A long finish on the tongue with more residual bitterness than you would expect from a beer of this type,” says resident beer expert and Greenwich Time editor Jim Zebora.

If only they stocked Brother Thelonious…(UPDATE: actually, they do have it in bottles.)

-CP, via iPhone (from the bar)

Chris Preovolos/The Advocate

Above: A pair of alfajores from Matthews’ Bakery. Below: Beef empanadas.

9/30/2008

MATTHEW’S BAKERY: 71 WEST BROAD ST., STAMFORD

Pepe Huyhua, the owner of Matthew’s Bakery in Stamford, is quick to let you know he offers a dazzling variety of pastries for such a small bakery; French, Italian, German, Jewish, you name it.

Huyhua, a native of Peru, was trained as a baker in Lima where he baked almost exclusively Peruvian pastries and breads. However, in 25-years of work in other people’s bakeries in the United States, he picked up a lot of experience baking a wide array of European and American confections. Naturally, when he went into business for himself nearly two years ago, Huyhua drew on all of this to offer a truly multi-cultural, multi-ethnic menu.

It is evident he doesn’t want to be pigeon-holed as a Latino or Peruvian baker, but just ask him about his Peruvian offerings and he will proudly tell you about the empanadas, alfajores, and the chicha morada-inspired dessert (the latter made only on weekends).

My brother-in-law, Luis, a native of Lima, has been teaching me a little about Peruvian cuisine. Unfortunately he and my sister live in Washington, D.C. and I’m only able to sample his cooking (particularly the papa a la huancaina) once or twice a year, so I had no idea what alfajores were. When I found out Pepe was talking about butter cookies filled with dulce de leche and covered in powdered sugar, I couldn’t wait to try one. The cookies are rich – I could only eat one, which is really saying something coming from me – but at the same time light, not-too-sweet and generally really, really good.

I usually go for the empanadas; they are Peruvian-style and always hit the spot. The beef empanada is baked and filled with ground beef, onion, hard-boiled egg and an olive. Matthew’s also offers a chicken version, though I prefer the former (doused liberally with La Victoria’s Orange Sauce).

I’ve also had the brioche, croissants, egg-and-spinach croissants, cheese Danish, scones, etc. and they are all worth a try. You can’t really go wrong.

Just about the only thing I don’t much care for are the tamales and even then, not because there are bad, but because they are plain corn tamales and I can’t bite into one without wishing it was stuffed with pork. But I’m just quibbling here, I’m not sure I could ask for more, all within a 15-second walk from my front door.

–CP

And all the rest:

9/28/2008

Following the death of Robert Steinberg, co-founder of Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker, All Things Considered interviewed John Scharffenberger about Steinberg and their entry into the specialty chocolate industry. Listen here.

–CP

P.S. He says you can make chocolate at home. I’m intrigued, but not enough to put cocoa beans in my Mazzer coffee grinder.

Photo/Chris Preovolos

9/27/2008

If I wasn’t so lazy I would have whipped up some crawfish étouffée solely for the purposes of having something Louisiana-themed to wash down with a bottle Turbodog. The dark brown ale from Abita Brewing Company goes with pretty much anything, but drinking it always makes with wish I had a bowl of étouffée or a $6 po’ boy from Tony’ Seafood in the Red Stick in front of me.

The thing is, I’m nothing if not lazy, so I ended up with cornbread instead. I had just watched a segment on America’s Test Kitchen about cornbread and wanted to try out the recipe anyway.

It doesn’t get me anywhere close to this killer étouffée so I guess I will have to bust out the Dutch oven and make some…soon.

Still – while not exactly a meal – I heartily endorse this combo. Bon temps.

–CP

Chris Preovolos/The Advocate

9/24/2008

BURGER SHAKES AND FRIES: 302 DELAVAN AVE, GREENWICH

Kory Wollins is all business. It’s just that his business happens to be hamburgers. As the owner of Burgers, Shakes & Fries (a/k/a BSF) in the Byram section of Greenwich, he is willing to talk shop with anyone who will listen. Wollins doesn’t look like a guy who eats a lot of burgers, shakes or fries, but he obviously knows what he’s talking about.

What really struck me during our conversation was his unwavering commitment to quality burger shack fare at reasonable prices. High-quality ingredients, an extensive toppings menu, superior fries (how do so many people screw this up?) and good service are what BSF is all about.

I’m going to let you on on their secret: it’s in the bun. A couple of crispy, crunchy, hot-buttered slices of toast provide great texture and flavor and perfectly contain whatever you are putting on your quality ground chuck patty (cooked medium-rare unless otherwise specified).

I usually go for a standard Swiss burger, but I’m told a popular option is the ‘bacon, egg and cheeseburger.’ This strikes me as a bit calorically extravagant, but I can guarantee it will be my next BSF order.

–CP

P.S. The shop, which has already garnered a couple of mentions in New York Magazine in just its first year of business, is considering local expansion. Personally, I can’t wait.

The endorsement:

Lousy iPhone photo/Chris Preovolos

9/23/2008

I was down at Café Grumpy (the Chelsea location) this weekend with a friend and was delighted to see they were pulling Ritual’s Finca el Guayabo, Huila, a Colombian for their single-origin option for espresso and milk drinks.

If you haven’t been down there yet, you need to go. I usually order a ristretto (short, single shot) of the Novo Heartbreaker blend and a single-original cappuccino (the selection here rotates). This time I went back for another ristretto after brunch. The place is that good.

As a purist, I urge you try the small cappuccino if you are getting a milk-based drink, even if you normally order some sort of crazy latte at Starbucks…you will not be disappointed.

Oh yeah, did I mention they have two Clover machines and a short menu of fantastic coffees that is constantly being updated? I almost never get the “regular” coffee from the Clover because I’m so in love with the cappucinnos. However, I will say when they were the offering Intelligentsia’s Nicaraguan Limoncillo, (Cup of Excellence second place winner) I did have a single $7 cup. I know you aren’t going to believe me, but it’s worth every penny.

A full post about Grumpy is in the works but I just wanted to give a heads up. I can’t get enough of this place.

If Ed is working the Synesso, ask him to pull you a God-shot.

Enough of that, I gotta go pull a shot (currently home-roasted Liquid Amber blend from Sweet Maria’s).

–CP